Swarm Trap & Pheromone
Inspired by other bloggers and my cousin Simon I have set up 3 hive traps containing a swarm lure using a pheromone (Nasanov).
I have bought these swarm traps that are made from a moulded fibre material that should last several years and is designed to be like the hollow of a tree.
Swarm Lure
I’ve also attached some swarm lure inside which contains a synthetically produced Nasanov pheromone. The Nasanov (alternatively, Nasonov) pheromone is released by worker bees to orient returning forager bees back to the colony. Apparently, it also attracts scout bees and swarms.
Best Swarm Trap Location
I have read that is best to place traps about 150m away from the target hives and up a hill if possible. Also, best to place the traps as high as you can (without risking your self) and south facing. Mine are all in trees about 1.5m up.
How Effective Are Swarm Traps & Lures
There is evidence that swarm traps containing pheromones are 5 times as effective as traps without the lure. “In new clean traps, those with pheromone attracted 19
swarms; those without pheromone attracted only 4 swarms (Schmidt, J. Chem. Ecol. 20:
1053-56 [1994]).”
And traps with lures are 4 times as effective as using old comb. Some of the results were summarised in the December 1990 issue of American Bee J. on p. 812. Essentially, the pheromone traps caught 13 swarms to the 3 of the traps with comb and no pheromone.
I would love to hear from readers about the effectiveness of their swarm traps.
Film Of Beekeeper Hiving Swarm From Trap
I like this video. Another beekeeper with no protection. Doesn’t seem too bothered by the bee stings.
Apiary Update
I had a disastrous winter and had to buy 2 nucs. I installed these on 25 April and inspected yesterday. One hive had 10 frames of bees and the other 5 and a half frames. I’ll add supers to the stronger hive shortly.
Also, my one surviving hive from the winter only has 2 frames of bees but I don’t understand why. It has last years queen, pollen and stores. Low/zero varroa. I can see eggs and larvae in various stages but 1 in 10 cells also has 2 or 3 eggs. This could be due to (a) laying workers, (b) a failing queen or (c) not enough workers to properly clean the cells hence queen lays more than one egg in cell. Perplexing. Photo below from this hive. I’m keeping it going to see if it expands. Any thoughts? You can click on photo and zoom in if you want a closer look.
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You mentioned adding a super. Are your hives only 1 deep box? Where are you located ? I’m in southern Indiana and couldn’t overwinter hives without double deep box. If a hive doesn’t make 2 deep boxes in 1st flow , I either combine with another hive or move them into my heated pole barn
I use a large brood box called a 14×12 (equiv to a brood box and a half in the UK). Plenty of space for a colony and for over-wintering.
I’m located in South West England.
I’m looking into insulating the hives better this winter.
A colony which is slow to grow can be a symptom of nosema. You do not always have dysentery with nosema, particularly nosema ceranae. If the problem is a failing queen, hopefully they will try to supersede her. Being cold or low on stores could also hold them back from expanding, perhaps they would benefit from being in a nuc box if they aren’t already.
Putting them in a nuc box is a great idea. My one nuc box is currently with a friend who’s doing a swarm manipulation into this box. When it’s free again – I’ll put these few weak frames into the nuc. Thanks for the advice.
If you have more than one egg per cell, it means laying workers. A real problem that I encountered last year. You can try re-queening but that means moving 2 frames of brood from another hive and making sure that you have young bees to take care of the emerging brood. Or you could look for a queen cell in another hive – or beg one from a neighbour – also add a frame of brood and hope for the best. Good luck.
I’m not sure I see the advantage of a swarm trap over a spare brood box filled with foundationless frames (http://theapiarist.org/bait-hives-success/). The second video shows how he transfers bees from the trap to a conventional hive. If they’d been attracted to a box full of frames in the first place all of that would have been unnecessary. It would have also reduced the number of stings he received (though so would a bee suit 😉 ). However, the reference you have to pheromone vs. a manky old brood frame is interesting. I always add lemongrass oil but haven’t tried pheromone. One of my bait hives is receiving loads of attention from scouts but I recently discovered that the nearest beekeeper has clipped queens … I bet the swarm is hanging down under the hive floor right now and can’t relocate because the queen is clipped.
Hello,
When do you put out your swarm traps?
In the UK – mid-April.
Hello,
When do you put out your swarm traps?
What is the name of the lure (swarm commander, lemon grass oil or another)
I would like to try catching a swarm.
My first colony died in the winter ( it was a small swarm of last year that I was given) I should of replaced the queen, but I didn’t want to kill her. I’ve learned from that!
So bee less I need to get some more.
Honeybee Swarm Lure – follow the link for more info. Please note Vita are a sponsor of this blog.